When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.
This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.
“I’m totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.
In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.
The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.
Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.
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